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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.